Description
This climb is obvious and aesthetic, visible from the loop. It seems unlikely it hasn't been climbed before, so I'll name it and not claim it. Just as I started up, it began to flurry in the canyon.
The opening roof at the bottom was a surprise, as it's hidden on approach. Somehow, it turns out that's the easiest part of the route. Scramble up on the ledge, plug a hand sized cam, and safely stem out and up to the main crack.
I recently climbed Joe's 5.8 Mito, and this felt about the same, so let's call it Herbst 5.8.
Location
On approach to Angel Food Wall this south facing, white wall with a fat crack is very obvious. Follow a sheep trail up. 22 minutes from the car.
Protection
Single rack .5-6 Black diamond or equivalent. Extra #4 if your squeamish. Build an anchor up top, and scramble off climbers right to the gully.