Description
Magnus Veritas ascends the face to the climber's right of Days of Future Passed on End Pinnacle. It was originally rated 5.11R in Kerry's Guide, but it seems the R rating no longer applies. There are some runs between protection, on easier but not entirely trivial climbing.
P1) Begins just right of the original start to Days, up a layback then past a few bolts up and right to a stance below a small field of plates. Climb these plates until they run out and commit left to some big holds then up easier ground to a 2 bolt belay. Some adequate pro can be had between the plates if creative.
P2) Climb up to bulbous arch feature, clip a bolt and pull first crux over a bulge on small crimps. A couple bolts later is crux #2 on thin face. Climbing gradually eases to 5.9 past a handful of bolts to a 2 bolt belay. Without the added bolts, the FA was surely a long ways out on this section.
P3) Nice, sustained, well protected 5.8/5.9 climbing up to the belay below the summit cap (shared with Days and Endgame). According to Kerry's topo, this pitch originally only had 2 bolts, meaning a BIG runout on this long pitch.
Location
Approach as for Days of Future Passed, starts with 2 bolts near the ground up a layback.
Protection
12-14 draws seems right, along with a set of stoppers and singles of small to med cams. I think my partner said the first pitch could maybe take a #3 BD cam too.
Routes in End Pinnacle
- 13Magnus Veritas5.11Trad · Sport