Description
This route is better known as "Sex", thus completeing the trio of "restday favorites". It starts right of the slab below the summit of Der Freischutz and follows 2 bolts into a left-leaning corner to the top. After clipping the first bolt, make 5.9 moves up into the left-facing flake, where a blue Metolius cam can be placed if so desired. Mantel on top of the flake and clip the second bolt. Climb the face up into the crack (10a crux), place a few small wires, and follow the crack (5.9) to the top. Here, a directional wire can be placed in a notch (to protect a second climber) and the leader can down climb right to the anchors. 50 feet. Rappel from anchors.
Protection
Bring a blue Metolius TCU, several quickdraws, and a set of small nuts.
Per
Aeon Aki
: this route now has its own set of anchors eliminating the need to "down climb" to the
Drugs
chains.
Routes in Der Freischutz
- 4Bidoigt5.10aTrad