No Vacancy (submitted as No Math Required)
Description
This route is just left of
Partners in Crime
on the Freeform Wall in Sand Gulch. It is just right of a shallow dihedral/crack.
The route is identified by six glue-in bolts, with washers behind the hangers. The hangers, Kong-Bonati, have "Italy" stamped on the face. A seventh bolt was apparently added later, at the bottom, by an unknown party and has a home-made hanger. The anchors are 1/2 x 4" sleeve bolts with Metolius hangers and quicklinks/chain.
History - the FA party felt the line was a bit squeezed by standards of the day, so they called it "No Vacancy." Glue-ins are messy, so a rag was used to keep things clean. A female climber came by, most curious about the route construction and especially the old pair of underwear used to tidy things up and dubbed the new route, "Tighty Whities."
Protection
7 bolts to the anchor - six original, on standard 3/8" hangers; one added later by unknown party, on a home-made hanger.
Routes in Free Form Wall
- 9No Vacancy (submitted as No Math Required)5.11-Sport