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Peak Mountain 3

The Cream Machine

FA Josh O'Bryan, John Seymer in 2011
CREATED May 2023
UPDATED May 2023

Description

Possibly the most overlooked sport climb at the Motherlode? An interesting slab that starts in a small, vertical scoop feature and continues up debris covered, low angle rock with water grooves and edges to the top.

Start on the right side of the scoop and make a few steep moves to establish yourself on some protruding edges on the left face. A couple perplexing moves get you to a stance about 10 feet below the fourth bolt. Balance up and left along slopey water grooves then shuffle right along a juggy rail to clip(PG13 part). Mantle over the rail and continue up much easier slab using edges to the top.

I admit that this route is dirty, but the rock is great and the climbing is very fun. Might not be the best route for a budding 5.10 climber. Great option if you are looking for an adventure.

Location

Right of Ball Scratcher.

Protection

Bolts and a two bolt anchor.


2000 km
1000 mi