Desert Song
Description
Located on the awesome West face of the Sentinel lies this classic route which is located just right of center on the wall. It is visible as a vertical crack/seam which leads up to the right end of an impressive roof.
P1, 5.10 A0 or 5.11
PG
)
Start right at some yucca plants and climb the steep crack/seam past three bolts and three fixed heads until possible to traverse left to a bolted anchor. It is possible to rap from here (60 meter rope works best), but there is more fun ahead...
P2, 5.11b R
)
From the belay make some hard moves with so-so pro up and slightly right then back left to reach a hand crack perched at the lip of the previously mentioned roof. Once in the crack traverse left along the lip and up until you reach a vertical crack which leads to the top. Walk off to climber's right down slabs.
This is a true Josh classic that should be done by those comfortable at this grade, but be aware that the second pitch is heads-up. The first pitch (5.10 with aid or 5.11 free) is popular and often done without committing to the imposing second pitch.
Protection
3 bolts (3/8"), several fixed heads, gear to 3 inches
Routes in The Sentinel - West Face
- 8Desert Song5.11bTrad