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Description
Access a small buttress under the south face via the glacier, climb up and right to access a right-trending ramp, belay below a corner system, trend up and left to connect with obvious gash in upper south face. Chimney up the gash to the top. Descent: scramble downward a few hundred feet toward a notch and rappel.
Protection
Light alpine rack. Many nut placements possible. A few medium cams for the upper pitches. Crampons may be useful in late season.