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Peak Mountain 3

Conversions

FA Matt Samet, Steve Levin
CREATED May 2023
UPDATED May 2023

Description

This is a new route that climbs the smooth black and green face forming the left wall of the first pitch of

The Side Wall

(just left of

Unbroken Chain

). It can easily be toproped from the good double-bolt anchor atop the first pitch of

The Side Wall

. It was established headpoint style and the first two pieces were pre-rigged on top-rope.

The lower face is the crux, mentally and physically. A crimpy stand-up moves caps the sequence and deposits you on a ledge. Lean right and load up the flake on

Unbroken Chain

, then climb the arete via its less steep left side to the anchors on

The Side Wall

.

The Sidewall alcove is a nice warm hang on winter days, especially if the sun is out.

Protection

Two crashpads, RPs and stoppers, small TCUs and a skyhook.


Routes in West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John


  1. 43
    Conversions
    5.12
    Trad ยท Tr
2000 km
1000 mi