Description
This is the wonderful swirly stone route just left of Lippy Dyke that was begging to be bolted and climbed. Start down and right of the first bolt on a big jug rail and work up and left, past two bolts to a recondite crux and keep traversing left on sublime climbing; mostly tech slopers and pinches. hanging the draws is a bit scary from left of the bolts, and is much easier if you climb above the bolts a tad. spooky falls, although unlikely, would result in a bit of a pendjy. There has been some discussion about relocating bolts 4 to the top 8"-12" to the left for easier, less scary position and clipping. The FA'ist is fine with this. Sustained and technical, this route is AMAZING! Can set up a TR or hang bolts from "Social Distancing".
Location
10 feet left of Lippy Dyke.
Protection
12 QDs should do it
Routes in The Toaster Wall
- 6Pandemic5.12bSport