Description
If you want to climb in the most remote area in the High Peaks with Marcys northern technical walls and East face in the background, then this 505-foot route may be the perfect venue. With a start to end mileage of 19 miles from the Garden Trailhead (including lunch on Mt. Haystack), this is an adventure in tenacity--but the "climb is worth the view".
The rock is of excellent quality with the first pitch beginning from the basaltic dike on the right side-Mt. Coldens Trap Dike in miniature. An aesthetic line up a left rising crack with excellent holds and edges breaks a corner to follow thirty feet up a right rising crack on the western aspect face (90'). Easy climbing follows up along cracks in bulges of pitted moonrock (180'). The third pitch adds a technical slide into the mix (165') before ending on a small cliff with a handcrack (70').
Route Description On Adirondack Rock
Location
This area lies on a western aspect in the north end of Panther Gorge below the shoulder of Little Haystack. Be prepared to donate a bit of blood in order to get to the base of the route, it's guarded by dense forest.
This previously undocumented cliff lies between a left rising gully on the northern edge and right rising gully (really a basaltic dike) on the right. The gully and dike trend toward each other giving the wall a defined V shape.
Protection
Standard rack.
Routes in Panther Gorge
- 48All Things Holy5.7Trad