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Peak Mountain 3

Billy Shears

FA Ray Dobkin, Joe Ferguson, Max Strumia 1982
CREATED May 2023
UPDATED May 2023

Description

P1: Move up the right side of the arch (dirty) to the right side of the roof and a good stance. Climb the short crack through the overhang (crux), then go right to a belay/rappel tree or go up to the GT ledge.

P3: From the GT ledge, a good 7+/8 move off the ledge leads to sustained pumpy jug-hauling through a devious notch. The last 25-30' is grassy and not well protected, but it's 5.3 at that point - you can traverse left to whatever gear is on Arch (not much).

Location

The easiest way to find this if you are not well acquainted with the cliff is to go up the trail that is across from where the Stairmaster meets the carriage road; there is a Mohonk Preserve sign there. At the cliff, turn left and walk 100 feet or so. The Arch is just around the corner from a prominent arete.

Protection

Standard 'Gunks rack


1000 km
500 mi